Creating Waves of Awareness
NOTE: Companion Planting is what you do yourself so that you don't have to use chemicals in your garden. Companion planting is based on the idea that certain plants can benefit others when planted in near proximity. The scientific and traditional basis for these plant associations are discussed. A companion planting chart for common herbs, vegetables, and flowers is provided, as is a listing of
literature resources for traditional companion planting. All the plants mentioned here can be bought or made into homoeopathic remedies. This is better for monoculture cashcrops and does not pose
any harvesting problems.
Generally, companion planting is thought of as a small-scale gardening practice. However, the term
here is applied in its broadest sense to include applications to commercial horticultural and agronomic crops.
Sometimes, a neighboring crop may be selected because it is more attractive to pests and serves to distract them from the main crop. An excellent example of this is the use of collards to draw the diamond back moth away from cabbage
Symbiotic Nitrogen Fixation
Legumes—such as peas, beans, and clover—have the ability to fix atmospheric nitrogen for their own use and for the benefit of neighboring plants via symbiotic relationship with Rhizobium bacteria. Forage legumes, for example, are commonly seeded with grasses to reduce the need for nitrogen
fertilizer. Likewise, beans are sometimes interplanted with corn. On request ATTRA can provide additional information on Rhizobium inoculation.
Biochemical Pest Suppression
Some plants exude chemicals from roots or aerial parts that suppress or repel pests and protect neighboring plants. The African marigold, for example, releases thiopene—a nematode repellent—making it a good companion for a number of garden crops. The manufacture and release of certain biochemicals is also a factor in plant antagonism. Allelochemicals such as juglone—found in black walnut—suppress the growth of a wide range of other plants, which often creates a problem in home horticulture. On the other hand, it is also a potent weed supressor, since it inhibits seed germination. Juglone is good for corn, which loves it. A positive use of plant allelopathy is the use of mow-killed grain rye as a mulch. The allelochemicals that leach from rye residue prevent weed germination but do not harm transplanted tomatoes, broccoli, or many other vegetables.
Physical Spatial Interactions
For example, tall-growing, sun-loving plants may share space with lower-growing, shade-tolerant species, resulting in higher total yields from the land. Spatial interaction can also yield pest control benefits. The diverse canopy resulting when corn is companion-planted with squash or pumpkins is believed to disorient the adult squash vine borer and
protect the vining crop from this damaging pest. In turn, the
presence of the prickly vines is said to discourage raccoons from
ravaging the sweet corn.
Tall or dense-canopied plants may protect more vulnerable species through shading or by providing a windbreak. Nurse crops such as oats have long been used
to help establish alfalfa and other forages by supplanting the more
competitive weeds that would otherwise grow in their place. In many
instances, nurse cropping is simply another form of physical-spatial
Beneficial habitats—sometimes called refugia—are another type of companion plant interaction that has drawn considerable attention in recent
years. The benefit is derived when companion plants provide a
desirable environment for beneficial insects and other
arthropods—especially those predatory and parasitic species which
help to keep pest populations in check. Predators include ladybird
beetles, lacewings, hover flies, mantids, robber flies, and
non-insects such as spiders and predatory mites. Parasites include a
wide range of fly and wasp species including tachinid flies, and
Trichogramma and ichneumonid wasps. Agroecologists believe that by
developing systems to include habitats that draw and sustain
beneficial insects, the twin objectives of reducing both pest damage
and pesticide use can be attained. For detailed information on
establishing beneficial habitats, request the ATTRA publication
to Enhance Biological Control.
Security Through Diversity
A more general mixing of various crops and varieties provides a degree of security to the grower. If pests or adverse conditions reduce or destroy a single
crop or cultivar, others remain to produce some level of yield.
Furthermore, the simple mixing of cultivars, as demonstrated with
broccoli in University of California research, can reduce aphid
infestation in a crop.
ALFALFA: Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes the soil with nitrogen, accumulates iron, magnesium, phosphorous and
potassium. Withstands droughts with it's long taproot and can improve
just about any soil! Alfalfa has the ability to break up hard clay
soil and can even send its' roots through rocks! Now that is a
tenacious plant! Alfalfa is practically
pest and disease free. It needs only natural rainfall to survive.
AMARANTH: A tropical annual that needs hot conditions to flourish. Good with sweet corn, it's leaves provide shade giving the corm a rich, moist
root run. Host to predatory
ground beetles. Eat the young leaves in salads.
ANISE: Licorice flavored herb, good host for predatory wasps which prey on aphids and it is also said to repel aphids. Deters pests from
brassicas by camouflaging their odor. Improves the vigor of any
plants growing near it. Used in ointments to protect against bug
stings and bites. Good to plant with coriander.
ASPARAGUS: Plant with Tomato, Parsley, Basil . Sprinkle parsley leaves onto the asparagus while it is growing.
BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or grains will deter weevils and moths. Sprinkle dried leaves with other deterrent
herbs in garden as natural insecticide dust. A good combo: Bay
leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and peppermint.
For ladybug invasions try spreading bay leaves around in your house anywhere they are getting in and they should leave.
BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they are good company for carrots, celery, chards, corn, eggplant,
peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers.
Great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French
Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Summer savory
deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor. Incompatible
BUSH BEANS: Irish Potato, Cucumber, Corn, Strawberry, Celery, Summer
Savory - Not compatible with Onions
POLE BEANS: Corn, Summer Savory, Radish - Not compatible with Onions, radish, sunflower, Beets, Kohlrabi,
BEE BALM (Oswego, Monarda): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Great for attracting beneficials and bees of course. Pretty perennial
that tends to get powdery mildew.
BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The leaves are composed of 25% magnesium making them a valuable addition to the compost pile if you don't care
to eat them. Companions are lettuce, kohlrabi, onions and brassicas.
Garlic improves growth and flavor. They are also beneficial to beans
with the exception ofrunner beans. Runner or
pole beans and beets stunt each other's growth.
BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash, strawberries and most plants. Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and
wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good
addition the compost pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich
in calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage may benefit any plant
it is growing next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease.
It also makes a nice mulch for most plants. Borage and strawberries
help each other and strawberry farmers always set a few plants in
their beds to enhance the fruits flavor and yield. Plant near
tomatoes to improve growth and disease resistance. After you have
planned this annual once it will self seed. Borage flowers are
BRASSICA: Benefit from chamomile, peppermint, dill, sage, and rosemary. They need rich soil with plenty of lime to flourish. Also, put straw on
the soil before planting. Keeps weeds at bay and promotes the growth
of all Brassicas.
BUCKWHEAT: Accumulates calcium and can be grown as an excellent cover crop. Attracts hoverflies in droves. (Member
of the brassica family.)
CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil with it's deep roots so it's also compatible next to shallow rooted crops.
Tricky to establish. The flowers attract a number of beneficial
insects especially the tiny parasitic wasps. Incompatible
with: dill and fennel.
CARROTS: Their pals are leaf lettuce, radish, onions and tomatoes. English Pea, Rosemary, Sage, Incompatible with: dill
CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and weevils. We have found it repels mice quite well: mice were wreaking
havoc in our outbuildings, we spread sprigs of mint throughout and
the mice split! Use sprigs of mint anywhere in the house you want
deter mice and ants. Smells good and very safe.
CELERY: Companions: cabbage family, tomato., Onion, Bush Beans, Nasturtium
CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and
sulfur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil production
from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will
reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial that will
tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both like full sun. Growing
chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for anything you grow in
CHARDS: Companions: Bean, cabbage family and onion.
CHERVIL: Companion to radishes for improved growth and flavor. Keeps aphids off lettuce. Said to deter slugs. Likes shade.
CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. Keeps aphids help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may
drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among apple
trees it helps prevent scab and among roses it prevents black spot.
You will need patience as it takes about 3 years for plantings of
chives to prevent the 2 diseases. A tea of chives may be used on
cucumbers and gooseberries to prevent downy and powdery mildews.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) It's flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical
pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White flowering
chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles.
CLOVER: Long used as a green manure and plant companion. Attracts many beneficials. Useful planted around apple trees to attract predators
of the woolly aphid.
COMFREY: Accumulates calcium, phosphorous and potassium. Likes wet spots to grow in. Traditional medicinal plant. Good trap crop for slugs. Also
improves acid soils.
CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this can be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.
CORN:Irish Potato, Beans, English Pea, Pumpkin, Cucumber, Squash Not compatible with tomato
COSTMARY:This 2-3 foot tall perennial of the chrysanthemum family helps to repel moths.
CUCUMBERS: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the same conditions warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture.
Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. A great duet is
to plant cukes with sunflowers. The sunflowers provide a strong
support for the vines. Cukes also do well with peas, beets
carrots. Dill planted with cucumbers by attracting beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor. Incompatible
with: sage, Irish Potato, Aromatic Herbs
DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots or caraway. Best friend for lettuce. Attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps.
Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree. Also may repel the
dreaded squash bug!(scatter some good size dill leaves on plants that
are suspect to squash bugs, like squash plants, yeah that's the
ticket.) Dill goes well with onions, cabbage, sweet corn and
cucumbers. Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so it would
useful to plant it somewhere away from your tomato plants to keep the destructive horn worm away from them. We like to plant it
for the swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their
caterpillars are beautiful.
EGGPLANT: Beans, Marigold
FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes. Flax contains tannin and linseed oils which may offend the Colorado potato bug. Flax is an annual from
1-4 feet tall with blue or white flowers that readily self sows.
FOUR-O'CLOCKS:Draw Japanese beetles like a magnet which then dine on the foliage. The foliage is pure poison to them and they won't live to have
dessert! It is important to mention that Four O'clock are also
poisonous to humans. Please be careful where you plant them if you
have children. They are a beautiful annual plant growing from 2-3
feet high with a bushy growth form.
GARLIC:Plant near roses to repel aphids. Accumulates sulfur: a naturally occurring fungicide which will help in the garden with disease
prevention. Garlic is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants
through their pores and when used as a soil drench is also taken up
by the roots. Has value in offending codling moths, Japanese beetles,
root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. Researchers have observed
that time-released garlic capsules planted at the bases of fruit
trees actually kept deer away! Hey, worth a try! Concentrated garlic
sprays have been observed to repel and kill whiteflies, aphids and
fungus gnats among others with as little as a 6-8% concentration! It
is safe for use on orchids too.
GERANIUM: -Repels cabbage worms and Japanese beetles, plant around grapes, roses, corn, and cabbage.
GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.
GRAPES: Hyssop is beneficial to grapes as are beans, peas, or blackberries. Keep radishes and cabbage away from grapes. Planting clover increases the
soil fertility for grapes. Chives with grapes help repel aphids.
Plant your vines under Elm or Mulberry trees! Also, use the castor
oil plant, because it is a good companoin to all vines – including
HORSERADISH: Plant in containers in the potato patch to keep away Colorado potato bugs. There are some very effective insect sprays that can be made
with the root. Use the bottomless pot method to keep horseradish
contained. Also repels Blister beetles. We have observed that the
root can yield anti-fungal properties when a tea is made from it.
HOREHOUND: (Marrubium Vulgare) like many varieties in the mint family, the many tiny flowers attract Braconid and Icheumonid wasps, and Tachnid and
Syrid flies. The larval forms of these insects parasitize or
otherwise consume many other insects pests. It grows where many
others fail to thrive and can survive harsh winters. Blooms over a
long season, attracting beneficial insects almost as long as you are
likely to need them. For best results use horehound directly as a
companion plant. Stimulates and aids fruiting in tomatoes and
HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths and flea beetles. Do not plant near radishes. Hyssop may be the number one
preference among bees and some beekeepers rub the hive with it to
encourage the bees to keep to their home. It is not as invasive as
other members of the mint family making it safer for interplanting.
KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea as a spray, this versatile sea herb will not only repel insects but feed the vegetables. In
particular we have observed that kelp foliar sprays keep aphids and
Japanese beetles away when used as a spray every 8 days before and
during infestation times. If you have access to seaweed, use it as a
mulch to keep slugs away.
LAMIUM: This will repel potato bugs- a big problem for many gardeners!
LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering lavender nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Use dried sprigs of lavender
to repel moths. Start plants in winter from cuttings, setting out in
LEEKS: Use leeks near carrots, celery and onions which will improve their growth. Leeks also repel carrot flies.
LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to deter many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work:
crush and rub the leaves on your skin to keep mosquitoes away! Use to
ward off squash bugs!
LETTUCE: Carrot, Radish, Strawberry, Cucumber
LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants. Good habitat for ground beetles. A large plant, use one planted as a backdrop. Similar to
celery in flavor.
MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant
freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose must be a
scented variety for them to work. One down side is that marigolds do
attract spider mites and slugs. Note that within one night after
planting marigold plants, all the leaves were already eaten off,
though the flowers were still on. Blamed it on geckos, but probably
is slugs or snails. yuck. Slugs and snails love marigolds.
French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that exude a substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control
you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies
done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several
years after the plants were gone.These marigolds also help to deter
whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in
greenhouses for the same purpose.
Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds.
Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is
said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful
it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and
MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.
MELONS: Companions: Corn, pumpkin, radish and squash. Other suggested helpers for melons are as follows: Marigold deters beetles, nasturtium deters
bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas, aphids and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes. Use cuttings as a mulch
around members of the brassica family. It attracts hoverflies and
Earthworms are quite attracted to mint plantings. Be careful where you plant it as mint is an incredibly invasive
perennial. Placing mint (fresh or dried) where mice are a problem is
very effective in driving them off!
MOLE PLANTS: (castor bean plant) Deter moles and mice if planted here and there throughout the garden. Drop a seed of this in mole runs to drive them
away. This is a poisonous plant.
MORNING GLORIES:They attract hoverflies. Plus if you want a fast growing annual vine
to cover something up morning glory is an excellent choice.
NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug,
cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. Great trap
crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does
attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil
moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root
zone of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of
the plants and repel bugs. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A
nice variety to grow is Alaska which has attractive green and white
variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible and
wonderful in salads!
NETTLES, STINGING: The flowers attract bees. Sprays made from these are rich in silica and calcium. Invigorating for plants and improves their
disease resistance. Leaving the mixture to rot, it then makes an
excellent liquid feed. Comfrey improves the liquid feed even more.
Hairs on the nettles' leaves contain formic
acid which "stings" you.
ONIONS: Planting chamomile with onions improves their flavor. Other companions are savory, carrot, leek, beets, kohlrabi, strawberries,
brassicas, dill, lettuce and tomatoes. Intercropping onions and leeks
with your carrots confuses
the carrot and onion flies! Beets, Carrot, Lettuce, Cabbage Family, Onions planted with strawberries
help the berries fight disease. Incompatible
with: Beans, English Peas and summer savory.
OPAL BASIL:An annual herb that is pretty, tasty and said to repel hornworms!
OREGANO: Can be used with most crops but especially good for cabbage. Plant near broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower to repel cabbage butterfly and near
cucumbers to repel cucumber beetle. Also benefits grapes.
PARSLEY: Plant among and sprinkle the leaves on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some
go to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps and hoverflies.
Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted around their
PEAS: Peas fix nitrogen in the soil. Plant next to corn and they will provide extra nitrogen. Corn is a heavy feeder so this is a great combination!
Companions for peas are bush beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Celery,
Chicory, Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, Parsley, Early Potato, Radish,
Spinach, Strawberry, Sweet pepper and Turnips. Incompatible
with: onions, Gladiolus, Irish Potato.
PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea beetles. It is the menthol content in mints that acts as an insect repellant. Bees and
other good guys love it.
PEPPERS, BELL (Sweet Peppers): Plant peppers near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots. Onions make an
excellent companion plant for peppers. They do quite well with okra as it shelters
them and protects the brittle stems from wind. Don't plant them near
fennel or kohlrabi. They should also notbe grown near apricot trees
because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm
to the apricot tree. Peppers candouble as ornamentals, so tuck some
into flowerbeds and borders. Harvesting tip: The traditional bell
pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties
will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers can be harvested at any
stage of growth, but their flavor doesn't fully develop until
PEPPERS, HOT: Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. Teas made
from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays. Hot peppers like to
be grouped with cucumbers, eggplant, escarole, tomato, okra, Swiss
chard and squash. Herbs to plant near them include: basils, oregano,
PENNYROYAL: Repels fleas. The leaves when crushed and rubbed onto your skin will repel chiggers, flies, gnats, mosquitoes and ticks. Warning:
Pennyroyal is highly toxic to cats. It should not be planted where
cats might ingest it and never rubbed onto their skin.
PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and general garden pests. A good
companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The leaves can be used
in a tea to make a potent bug spray.
POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.
POTATO: Companions for potatoes are bush bean, members of the cabbage family, carrot, celery, corn, dead nettle, flax, horseradish, marigold, peas,
petunia, onion and Tagetes marigold. Protect them from scab by
putting comfrey leaves in with your potato sets at planting time.
Horseradish, planted at the corners of the potato patch, provides
general protection. Don't plant these around
potatoes: cucumber, kohlrabi, parsnip, pumpkin, rutabaga, squash
family, sunflower, turnip and fennel. Keep potatoes and tomatoes
apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each
POTATO- IRISH: Beans, Corn, Cabbage Family, Marigolds, Horseradish Incompatible with: Pumpkin, Squash, Tomato, Cucumber,
PUMPKINS: Pumpkin pals are corn, melon and squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
Incompatible with: Irish Potato
PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn patch. Use the stems, leaves and seeds in stir-frys. Pickle the green seed pod for caper
substitutes. If purslane is growing in your garden it means you have
RADISH: Companions for radishes are: radish beet, bush beans, pole beans, carrots, chervil, cucumber, lettuce, melons, nasturtium, parsnip,
peas, spinach and members of the squash family. Why plant radishes
with your squash plants? Radishes may protect them from squash
borers! Anything that will help keep them away is worth a try.
Chervil and nasturtium improve growth and flavor. Planting them
around corn and letting them go to seed will also help fight corn
borers. Chinese Daikon and Snow Belle are favorites of flea beetles.
Plant these at 6 to 12inch intervals broccoli. In one trial, this
measurably reduced damage to broccoli. Incompatible
with: hyssop plants, cabbage,
sprouts and turnips. Planting an early row of radishes may lure flea beetles away from susceptible plants.
ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies. Use
cuttings to place by the crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6
and colder can overwinter rosemary as houseplants or take cuttings.
RUE: Deters aphids, fish moths, flea beetle, onion maggot, slugs, snails, flies and Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries. Companions for rue are
roses, fruits (in particular figs), raspberries and lavender. To make
it even more effective with Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves to
release the smell. Has helped repel cats for us. You should not plant
rue near cucumbers, cabbage, basil or sage. A pretty perennial with
bluish-gray leaves. May be grown indoors in a sunny window. Rue may
cause skin irritation in some individuals.
RYE: An excellent use of plant allelopathy is the use of mow-killed grain rye as a mulch. The allelochemicals that leach from the rye residue
prevent weed germination but do not harm transplanted tomatoes,
broccoli, or many other vegetables.
SAGE: Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles and
carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers, onions or rue. Sage repels
cabbage moths and black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower will
also attract many beneficial insects and the flowers are pretty.
There are some very striking varieties of sage with variegated
foliage that can be used for their ornamental as well as practical
SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden. Wonderful lemony scent when crushed or brushed in passing. Roots easily from
cuttings. Does not like fertilizer! It is a perennial that can get
quite bushy. We have started to cut it back every spring and it comes
back in not time. A delightful plant that is virtually pest free.
SOYBEANS: They add nitrogen to the soil making them a good companion to corn. They repel chinch bugs and Japanese beetles. Soybeans are so good for you!
They are many ways to prepare them but the only one way they ARE good
for you is in the lactic acid fermented form of bean curd (tofu).
SPINACH: Strawberry, Faba Bean
SQUASH: Companions: Corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon and pumpkin. Helpers: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds
deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano
provides general pest protection. Incompatible
with: Irish Potato
STRAWBERRY: Friends are beans, borage, lettuce, onions, spinach and thyme. Foes: Cabbage. Allies: Borage strengthens resistance to insects and disease. Thyme,
as a border, deters worms.
SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. Discourages cabbage moths, Mexican bean beetles and black aphids. Honey bees love
SUNFLOWERS:Planting sunflowers with corn is said by some to increase the yield. Aphids a problem? Definitely plant a few sunflowers here and there in
the garden. Step back and watch the ants herd the aphids onto them!
We have been doing this for years and it is remarkable. The
sunflowers are so tough that the aphids cause very little damage and
we have nice seed heads for our birds to enjoy! Talk about a
symbiotic relationship! There
is a problem with sunflowers - they are incompatible with potatoes!
SWEET ALYSSUM: Direct seed or set out starts of sweet alyssum near plants that have been attacked by aphids in the past. Alyssum flowers attract
hoverflies whose larva devour aphids. Another plus is their blooms
draw bees to pollinate early blooming fruit trees. They will reseed
freely and make a beautiful groundcover every year.
TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries keeping in mind that it can be invasive and is not the most
attractive of plants. Tansy which is often recommended as an ant
repellant may only work on sugar type ants. These are the ones that
you see on peonies and marching into the kitchen. At least for us
placing tansy clippings by the greenhouse door has kept them out.
Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles,
squash bugs, ants and mice! Tie up and hang a bunch of tansy leaves
indoors as a fly repellent. Use clippings as a mulch as needed. Don't
be afraid to cut the plant up as tansy will bounce back from any
abuse heaped on it! It is also a helpful addition to the compost pile
with its' high potassium content.
Tansy Warning: You do not want to plant Tansy anywhere that livestock can feed on it as it is toxic to many animals. Do not let it go to seed
either as it may germinate in livestock fields.
TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one. Recommended to enhance growth and flavor of vegetables.
THYME: Deters cabbage worms. Wooly thyme makes a wonderful groundcover. You may want to use the upright form of thyme in the garden rather than the
groundcover types. Thyme is easy to grow from seeds or cuttings.
Older woody plants should be divided inspring.
TOMATOES: Tomato allies are many: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium,
onion, parsley, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. Basil
repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm,
chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm,
improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and
health, mature dill retards tomato growth. Enemies: corn and tomato
are attacked by the same worm. Kohlrabi stunts
tomato growth. Incompatible with: potatoes, cabbage and cauliflower.
Keep Irish Potato, Fennel, Cabbage
Family apart from tomato as they both
can get early and late blight contaminating each other.
TURNIP: English Pea , Incompatible with Irish Potato
WHITE GERANIUMS:These members of the pelargonum family draw Japanese beetles to feast
on the foliage which in turn kills them.
WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border. An excellent deterrent to most insects. A tea made from wormwood will
repel cabbage moths, slugs, snails, black flea beetles and fleas
effectively. The two best varieties for making insect spray are
Silver King and Powis Castle. Adversely Powis castle attracts
ladybugs which in turn breed directly on the plant. Silver Mound is
great as a border plant and the most toxic wormwood. Note:
wormwood actually produces a botanical poison do not use it directly on food crops.
YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the compost pile
really speedsthings up. Try it! It also attracts predatory wasps and
ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the essential oil content
of herbs when planted among them.